Category Archives: Food

Deer Season

by Barbara Tanner Angell

My sister and her friend, Johnny Morley,
used to go on Saturdays to the Bancroft Hotel
to visit his grandfather.

One autumn, the beginning of deer season,
the old man told them,

“Used to hunt when I was a boy,
woods all around here then,
but I never went again after that time…

the men went out, took me with them,
and I shot my first buck.
It was wounded, lying in the leaves,

so they told me,
take the pistol, shoot it in the head.
I went straight up to it,
looked right into its eyes.

Just before I pulled the trigger,
it licked my hand.”

Kebabs labeled imminent threat

Bruce posted an interesting note about a “rational” response to peanut allergies today. I agree in theory with his suggestion that people need to move away from fear to find better solutions.

On that note, the BBC describes a similar issue with ‘shocking’ kebabs.

Apparently kebabs in the UK are not only bad for your health, they do not accurately state their ingredients.

Some 35% of labels listed a different meat species than that actually found in the kebab.

Six kebabs were found to include pork when it had not been declared as an ingredient. Two of the six were described as Halal – food or drink permitted for Muslims, which must not contain pork.

Just the words “different meat species” make me not want to eat a kebab ever again. Here is another shocking revelation.

In addition, there was little difference in weight between kebabs labelled as “small” and “large”, [Geoffrey Theobald, of Lacors] added.

“While some people may think they are making sensible choices by ordering a small kebab, this study showed little difference between small and large kebab weight.”

That might be a great thing when measured in simple economic terms, but the health/safety researchers seem to think less is more. They have even labeled some kebabs an “imminent” threat to public health. Will there be a kebab ban? Kebab control?

Maybe regulators should go the opposite direction and assign awards that emphasize kebab quality. That would surely help the folks too drunk at 4am at the Kebab stand. Although they are unable to tell if they are chewing pita or soggy paper wrapper/napkin, they should at least be certain they have purchased a healthy meat species. Wait, are we still talking about rational responses?

Pie Day

Whoa, I know I was eating pie on Friday anyway (like every day) but who knew there is an official National Pie Day in America? January 23rd is the date. Guess who really loves pie:

The new president likes a nice piece of pie, he says. He famously spoke the word “pie” something like 15 times in 82 seconds at a campaign stop last year.

Mmmmm, pie. Shaker lemon is my current favorite, not least of all because I have my own little meyer lemon tree that provides the key ingredient. I also like that some consider it traditional.

Eating Squirrel

The International Herald Tribune extols the virtues of putting common North American gray squirrel on the menu. Demand is apparently already rising:

Though squirrel has appeared occasionally in British cookery, history doesn’t deem it a dining favorite. Even during World War II and the period of austerity that followed, the Ministry of Food valiantly promoted the joys of squirrel soup and pie. British carnivores replied, “No, thank you.”

These days, however, in farmers’ markets, butcher shops, village pubs and elegant restaurants, squirrel is selling as fast as gamekeepers and hunters can bring it in.

Perhaps you, like me, wonder why. First, it makes for good conversation:

“Part of the interest is curiosity and novelty,” said Barry Shaw of Shaw Meats, who sells squirrel meat at the Wirral Farmers Market near Liverpool. “It’s a great conversation starter for dinner parties.”

More importantly in England, however, eating gray squirrel is a matter of national security — it helps protect the native squirrel species from competition:

Enter the “Save Our Squirrels” campaign begun in 2006 to rescue Britain’s red squirrels by piquing the nation’s appetite for their marauding North American cousins. With a rallying motto of “Save a red, eat a gray!” the campaign created a market for culled squirrel meat.

Nothing like fear to compel consumption, but it obviously would have to be adjusted somehow to work in America. Eat the reds?

Some chefs relish (no pun intended) the opportunity to wax on about nature:

Henderson, who cooks with both poetry and passion, sometimes prepares his squirrels “to recreate the bosky woods they come from,” braising them with bacon, “pig’s trotter, porcini and whole peeled shallots to recreate the forest floor.” He serves it with wilted watercress “to evoke the treetops.”

And finally, some are said to even like the taste.